The Axios – Loudias – Aliakmonas National Park, in short distance from the urban centres of Thessaloniki, Katerini and Veria, offers great opportunities for walking, bird-watching, photography or simply for getting away from the noise of the city.
Each season has something different to offer: in winter, huge flocks of water birds and birds of prey congregate at Nea Agathoupoli, in spring, the forest glades are alive with birdsong and the wild horses come down to the riverbanks, in the summer the coastal area is pleasantly cool and ideal for walking, while autumn is the time to see great flocks of shorebirds in the Kalohori lagoon and the Alyki Kitrous salt works.
Follow the trails marked on the map and discover for yourself the beauties of this region! The office of the Management Authority in Halastra (open 9:00-18:00), which has informative material about the wetlands, is a good place to begin.
Download the map from here
SUGGESTED ROUTES
1. Kalohori Lagoon –Gallikos Estuaries– Gallikos River Environmental Park
Visit the two wooden observation posts overlooking the freshwater lakes of the Gallikos river and walk on the trails of the Environmental Park. There are visitor recreation areas here (POINTS 2, 3 and 4). The Kalohori Lagoon (POINT 5) is one of the best places for bird-watching, especially for rare species of shorebirds, while in the autumn, if you’re lucky, you may see an osprey at the mouth of the river Gallikos. There are water birds here all year round, and the area is very easily accessible.
2. Halastra – St Demetrios chapel – Pumping station – Hinarou cape–Gallikos estuary
A route to be explored by car, although most of the roads are unsealed. The first stop would be at the chapel of St Demetrios, a protected local historic monument, built in the middle of the 19th century at the spot where the people of Halastra used to cross the old riverbeds of the Axios in their traditional flat-bottomed boats (POINT 6) (PHOTO 13. church of St Demetrios). The road continues along the old riverbed of the Axios (the ‘little Vardaris’), to the coastal dyke (POINT 7).
Enjoy a particularly beautiful view of Thessaloniki from the promontory of Hinarou (POINT 8) and, in the winter months, look for grebes and black-throated divers in the Gulf. On the islets (POINT 9) during springtime you will see pelicans, flamingos, curlews, shelducks, black-headed gulls, and will be able to test your skill at recognising different species of waders.
3. Halastra – Fishermen’s huts (Axios) – Warden kiosk – Axios Lighthouse – Canal
Starting from Halastra and following the asphalt road towards the coast, you will come to the huts used by the fishermen and mussel farmers of the region (POINT 10), a local landmark since they were built in 2004. This area, called Kavoura Bay, is the heart of the local mussel-farming industry, in total amounting to almost 80% of the Greek mussel production.
Continuing to your right (as you face the sea) along the dirt road on the coastal dyke, you will arrive at a stonebuilt warden kiosk (POINT 11). From here you can either turn left, towards the lighthouse (POINT 12), or right, which will lead you back to Halastra, following the channel called “Danio”. Neither road is good, but both are worth taking, for you’re bound to see some lovely views of nature.
In the fresh water channel (which was excavated for the construction needs of the Axios dyke ) you may see glossy ibis, all the European species of herons including purple heron, spoonbills, mallards and ferruginous ducks. This is also the most likely place to see a muskrat, a fair-sized semi-aquatic rodent that resembles a beaver (POINT 13). On your way back to Halastra, before you leave the canal area you might like to stop and stretch your legs with a walk in the woods or towards the banks of Axios river (POINT 14).
The Axios lighthouse (POINT 12), at the end of this route, marks the point where the Bay of Thessaloniki opens out into the Gulf of Thermaikos. This is also its narrowest point, since just 5.5 km separate the cape Vardaris from cape Megalo Emvolo (at Angelohori).
4. Anatoliko – Old bridge – Axios woods
The north bank of the Axios river is a beautiful place, but still largely unknown by visitors . When you reach the river, from the village of Anatoliko, you will see an old bridge, broken in two by the force of the river in spate (POINT 15). From here you can see the lovely riverside forest, with its poplars, alders and willows dipping their branches in the water: this is a fine place for a walk along the riverbank. In winter, this stretch of the river can be as much as 5 metres deep. The best time to visit this area is during spring, when you are most likely to see and hear the numerous bird species that live in the woods.
5. Ellis Dam – Axios woods
If you continue north from Anatoliko, passing Agios Athanasios and coming out onto the Thessaloniki-Edessa highway, you can visit the Ellis Dam. But don’t miss the turning point: from the highway, as you are heading towards Nea Halkidona, turn right just after the Axios bridge, on to the dirt road that begins at the point where there is a single small white building (POINT 16).
The dam, which was built in the ‘60s as part of the irrigation system for this area, created a freshwater lake with extensive reed beds, where you can see various species of dabbling and diving ducks, herons, grebes and birds of prey. From here, you can climb (on foot or by car) a little hill (POINT 17), which gives you a wonderful view of the lake and the pristine riverine forest on the island. You will also have an overview of the Axios, as it winds its way down from the north, skirting the western slopes of Mount Paiko. With a little luck (and patience) you might see a herd of wild horses on the island. Continuing north and west from this spot, or – alternatively – following the road from Koufalia towards Prohoma, you can enjoy a pleasant walk through part of the riverside forest (POINT 18).
There is also an important historic monument in this area: the Byzantine cemetery in the grounds of the little church of SS Peter and Paul in Nea Halkidona (POINT 19). The huge stone crosses – up to 2 metres tall – and stones carved with inscriptions and symbols have been here since the 10th century, and are attributed to members of the Bogomil sect.
Another worthwhile stop is the Balkan Wars Museum in the village of Gefyra (POINT 20). This is where, in October 1912, Greece’s Commander-in-Chief, King Constantine, negotiated the peaceful surrender of Thessaloniki to the Greek army with the leader of the Ottoman forces, Hassan Takhsin. Exhibits include valuable artifacts and documents from that historic period (open: Monday – Friday, 9:00-14:00).
6. Kimina/Malgara – West Axios Delta – Fishermen’s huts (Loudias)
Starting your exploration at Kimina, visit the “Macedonian house”, a century-old private dwelling that is a well-preserved example of the local architectural style and a living museum, filled with things from everyday life at the turn of the twentieth century (open to the public: Saturdays, 10:00- 13:00) (POINT 21).
Then, after crossing the highway (via the underpass), turn left and follow the dirt road along the west embankment of the Axios. From this vantage point you will have a very good chance of seeing the feral horses of Axios, on your left (POINT 22). This road will lead you down to the coast and to a vast reed bed alive with birds: marsh harriers, herons, spoonbills, pygmy cormorants and, on the mud flats, redshanks, greenshanks, snipe, lapwings and curlews.
Continuing along the embankment, which now follows the coastline, you will arrive at the huts of the mussel farmers of Kimina and Nea Malgara (POINT 23). The traditional fisherman’s hut in the water in front of you is an interesting structure, and in the winter is usually ringed by large flocks of coots and several Dalmatian pelicans.
7. Kimina/Malgara – Mouth of the Loudias – St Nicholas – Coastal embankment – Almyravlakas
You can also get to the mouth of Loudias river via the road from Kimina to Klidi (parallel to the highway). As soon as you have crossed the bridge over Loudias, take the asphalt road to your left, which leads to a stone guard post at the mouth of the river (POINT 24). This is another good spot for bird-watching, especially in the winter when the sea is full of waterfowl.
From the little church of St Nicholas (POINT 25), a little way to the west, the view is particularly lovely, especially at sunset. Keen bird-watchers might prefer to make a circuit back by following the dyke of Almyravlakas (a stream that flows parallel to Aliakmonas river) (POINT 26). This is also a good place for walking through the riverside woods of Aliakmonas (POINT 27), which are beautiful at any time of year.
On your way back, between Klidi and Kymina you will see the arch of a Roman bridge, all that remains of a 3rd-century structure of 8 or 9 arches with a span of 190 metres. It is not certain whether this bridge was built to cross the river itself or one of the many marshes around the confluence of the Aliakmonas and Loudias rivers, but in either case it was a necessary part of the route from Thessaloniki to the city of Pella, which had been a coastal city but by that time had been completely cut off from the sea due to the sediment deposits of Aliakmonas and Loudias rivers.
This bridge is mentioned in historical documents nearly seven centuries later, when Emperor Alexios crossed it with his army in 1078. (POINT 28).
8. Nea Agathoupoli
Nea Agathoupoli is the perfect place for a Sunday outing with the family. Visit the Management Authority’s thematic pavilion (POINT 29) for a guided tour of the world of insects and other small creatures through the “Microcosmos” programme (Saturday and Sunday 10:00-13:00; other days by appointment). Afterwards, be sure to visit the Nea Agathoupoli Observation Post (POINT 30), one of the most beautiful bird-watching towers in Greece, with a panoramic view over the Nea Agathoupoli marsh and the mouth of the Aliakmonas.
In winter, the wetland is full of different kinds of ducks, while marsh harriers and spotted eagles are not uncommon, and with luck you may even see a golden or an imperial eagle. However, of all the birds that are commonly seen here, the white-tailed eagle is the most impressive. The observation post provides binoculars, telescopes and bird guides for the use of visitors, as well as a small exhibition (open: Tuesday-Sunday, 10:00-13:00).
Starting beside the observation post, an easy trail takes you closer to the wetland (POINT 31), in a very pleasant walk at any time of the year. A footpath/bicycle track (1 km) runs between the thematic pavilion and the observation post, and bicycles are available at the observatory. After exploring the beauties of this region and enjoying a pleasant walk, you might like to go on to Methoni for a meal of fresh fish and seafood mezedhes.
9. Nea Agathoupoli – Makrygialos – Ancient Pydna – Alyki Kitrous salt marsh – Korinos
The most direct way to get to the Alyki Kitrous salt works is to take the highway towards Katerini and turn off at either the Makrygialos or Korinos exit.
For a more scenic drive, turn off at theNea Agathoupoli – Methoni exit and follow the coastal road (asphalt) towards Kitros, through a landscape of gentle hills, vineyards, wooded streams and, on your left, the Thermaikos Gulf. On your way, you might like to stop at the archaeological site of ancient Pydna (POINT 32).
What is there to see when you reach the s salt works. If it is autumn, an impressive hill of salt and a lagoon full of flamingos (PHOTO 10. flamingos). Alyki Kitrous is one of the largest active salt works in the country, and the adjacent lagoon is one of the most important wetlands in Northern Greece. In winter flamingos flock here by the hundreds, while the mud flats in the eastern part of the site attract large numbers of many different species of waders. If you cannot get into the fenced-off area, you can still get a good view from the small hill nearby (POINT 33).
The sand dunes between the lagoon and the sea are important for their flora and as habitat for various species of reptiles, especially the Mediterranean turtle. To get to this area, follow the dirt road south from the saltpans to the little lighthouse (POINT 34). This is a wonderful place for a long walk, and for watching seabirds out on the gulf.